Short-Question

# Which of the following does wave height not depend on?

## Which of the following does wave height not depend on?

The wave height depends on the energy transferred to the surface by the wind; it does not depend on C, λ, or T. As you probably have seen in the ocean or a lake, the stronger the wind, the higher the waves.

What three factors determine the height length and period of a wave?

The size of a wave depends on three factors: the distance over which the wind blows across open water (the fetch), the strength of the wind, and the duration that the wind blows. The larger these factors, the larger are the waves.

What are three factors that affect wave height?

Wave height is affected by wind speed, wind duration (or how long the wind blows), and fetch, which is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction.

### How are wave period and wavelength related?

Wavelength, period and frequency are closely related to each other. By definition, wavelength is just the distance between two identical points in the adjacent cycles of a wave, and period is the time it takes to complete one cycle of the wave.

How is the height of wave determined?

Explanation: Wave height is determined by wind speed, the duration of time the wind has been blowing, fetch and by the depth and topography of the seafloor. A given wind speed has a matching practical limit over which time or distance will not produce larger waves.

What happens to wave height as a wave approaches the shore?

It shows that as a wave approaches shore, its wavelength (increases) (decreases). The wave profile also shows that the wave height, the vertical distance between the crest and succeeding trough, (increases) (de- creases) as the water depth decreases. Eventually, the building wave collapses into breakers.

## What factors determine the height length and period of a wave quizlet?

List three factors that determine the height, length, and period of a wave.

• wind speed.
• length of time the wind has blown.
• the fetch or distance that the wind has traveled across open water.

What are the factors that determine the length period and height of ocean waves?

The first factor is wind speed, and the second factor is wind duration, or the the length of time the wind blows. The final factor is the fetch, the distance over which the wind blows without a change in direction.

What does the wave height to wavelength need to be for breaking waves quizlet?

Wave speed is the wavelength divided by the wave period. Waves that approach the shoreline at an angle, will tend to refract so that they are ‘more parallel’ to the shoreline. Once wave height reaches one-half the water depth, the waves will ‘break’, or spill forward.

### What is the relationship between the wave crest trough height and wavelength quizlet?

As a wave begins to feel the bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: Increases and its wavelength decreases. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called: Plunging breakers.

What is the maximum height of a wave?

The probable maximum wave height can be up to twice the total wave height. Wave length is the average distance between crests (or troughs) of waves. Wave period and swell period is the average time between crests (or troughs) of waves.

How does wind affect the height of a wave?

The wave height depends on the energy transferred to the surface by the wind; it does not depend on C, λ, or T. As you probably have seen in the ocean or a lake, the stronger the wind, the higher the waves.

## How are the amplitude and the period of waves affected?

In this lab, you will take measurements to determine how the amplitude and the period of waves are affected by the transfer of energy from a cork dropped into the water. The cork initially has some potential energy when it is held above the water—the greater the height, the higher the potential energy.

How is wave frequency related to wavelength and velocity?

The Relationship between Wave Frequency, Period, Wavelength, and Velocity Since wave frequency is the number of waves per second, and the period is essentially the number of seconds per wave, the relationship between frequency and period is f = 1 T 13.1